INTRODUCTION

One of the best ways to dry wood floors is to implement the "Reet's Evaporation Method" utilizing tesor e-tes. And the best accessory for floor drying with tes or e-tes is the mats systems for floor drying such as Injectidry's Floor Drying Package or Dri-eaz's Dri-Force and Rescue Mat System.

In this bulletin, I'll provide you the steps and how to apply them for wood floor drying.

PROCEDURE

STEP 1 EXTRACTION:

This is the key for any drying and especially for wood floor drying. Extract the pooled water on top of the wood with your portable or truck-mounted equipment. Use a squeegee type wand. A carpet wand may scratch the floors finish.

You can also use a mop or towels. The more you remove this way the faster it will dry.

Now, what about the water between or under the boards? Many times there is still a substantial amount of "free" water that can be extracted to speed up the drying. To remove that water, you need to use a floor drying panel system. Place the panels on the floor and attach the hoses in the position the system will be running; however, before you attach your blower unit, attach it to your extraction unit. Let this run for up to 30 minutes or as long as you can. Pull up each panel and, using a towel, wipe up excess water that will have been drawn out of the floor system. Depending on the amount of water, you may wish to repeat that step. You will be amazed at the amount of extra water you can remove this way.

Now, reposition your panels and tape them as needed. Attach your blower and start the system.

STEP 2 ENERGY APPLIED DIRECTLY TO THE WATER (TEMPERATURE)

Direct containment is the best way to apply the energy (heat) to the floor. Spread poly sheeting (4-6 mil) over the affected floor and cut slightly larger than the area.

Now place the 10lb sandbags around the perimeter every 3-4 feet or as needed to hold the poly sheeting down. You may even utilize any furniture in the room along the edges to hold the sheeting.

Place the snout of a tex (Thermal Exchanger) or e-tes and attach the hoses.

Start the tes unit or e-tes and turn on the airmover.

If you have a crawlspace to place a tex box or e-tes or can direct more heated airflow below the floor, it will aid in the drying process.

It is important that the blower for the floor drying panel system be placed outside the direct containment (i.e. NOT under the poly sheeting). These blower units can be sensitive to high temperatures, but function fine in the ambient 90 - 100°F temperatures that are normally encountered.

We are getting air movement with two pieces of equipment - the airmover/texbox and also the floor drying panel system. We are heating the water to cause the evaporation, but the floor drying panel system is removing the vapor from the floor by providing airflow through the interspatial cavities in the floor. Do not skip the use of the mat system.

The sandbags - rather than stapling/taping/sealing - allows the air to escape, bringing with it water vapor and heating the walls, baseboards, and sill plates that may also be affected.

STEP 4 REDUCTION OF VAPOR SATURATION LEVELS (HUMIDITY) BY DEHUMIDIFICATION OR EVACUATION (DEHUMIDIFICATION):

Now that we have evaporated the moisture into the air, we need to remove it from the structure along with the excess heat. This is accomplished with the exhaust controller, an airmover, 14" layflat and a 14" duct ring. Set up the exhaust system to evacuate to the outside of the structure.

Set the exhaust control unit for the proper temperatures (see the instructions included with the unit)-usually 95°F with a 5° differential. Since there is less water in the wood than would be in a carpet/pad combination, the exhaust doesn't need to cycle as often.

(An alternative to the exhaust controller for dehumidification would be to utilize a dehumidifier.)

CONCLUSION

Monitor your progress at least daily - More often if practical. Many floors have been dried in 30 hours or less!